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Absolute wall to wall people, your elbow bumps others in rickshaws, pedestrians hang on behind you and follow, others wedge between and step over the front wheel, motor scooters constantly honk horns, and there is this feeling of a sea of humanity. You struggle to take it all in, look to the right and see vendors with gold, the left they're selling rugs, then you're confronted with awful smells where they are slaughtering chickens, then selling car parts, then small herds of goats, then book stores, make-shift hardware stores, boxes of electronic gadgets with made up names (Pana-Sonik, Sunni, etc), children gestering with their hands to give them something to eat, and in the middle of it all are dozens and dozens of these little 4-table restaurants frying-frying-frying something....
You stare not wanting to miss anything, they stare at you, you are so close to each other you can easily reach out and take something as the rickshaw goes by, or others can touch you and sometimes do by accident. The people are in rags, others with cell phones and leather attache cases, women are either dressed in bright colors (orange, purple, pink) and their mid-drift is completely exposed, or they are covered from head to toe in black and you see the gauze like material move as they breath.
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The senses are overwhelmed. Ten minutes seems like an hour, 30 minutes seems like all afternoon. When you finally reach the mosque you are to visit and you dismount the rickshaw you feel exhausted, and realize it all took about 45 minutes.
After removing your shoes, pay someone for a little tag that allows you to take photos, climb the many stairs, and from the top of this very high stairway you look back, see the 1000's of people flowing down the streets and realize, I will never be able to find the words to describe this experience.
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I am now in Varanasi, the holiest city in Hinduism. Tomorrow we break the day on the holy Ganges River, visit the place of Buddha's first sermon, and then end the day by sending a prayer candle down the holy river.
1 comment:
congratulations on your first blog entry! It is fun to experience again your India trip. You describe it so richly I feel like I'm right in the rickshaw with you. Keep it up. You know have a devoted reader.
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